by David Lee
Camera Nikon F90x : Lens 20mm/2.8 : Film Fuji Superia
800
Exposure 30 seconds at f/2.8
Click on the picture to see larger image
Astrophotography is often characterized by narrow-field images
of distant galaxies taken over long periods of time. This has
been made easier in the last decade with the advent of digital
techniques. These are often beautiful images given that we don't
get to see these everyday with our naked eyes.
As a photographer I don't have many telephoto lenses in my
photo toolkit. Why? I think I've always wanted to see everything
in the image, perhaps trying to recreate the experience more fully.
In my toolkit I have an extremely wide 16mm, wide 20mm and moderate
35mm. Yes I do have longer lenses but I don't find I use them
as often.
Lately I find myself more intrigued by untracked (less than
45 seconds) wide-field astronomy images. I've heard people say
they appear more natural, more accessible. Using very simple techniques
this can be a great way to enhance those observing sessions with
a record of the evening sky. For the beginner they can be a visual
diary of the constellations that are visible during different
seasons. Some images are definitely wide-field ... constellations,
the recent alignment of planets, meteor showers and aurora.
What do you need?
| camera capable of time exposures |
| lens |
| tripod |
| high speed film |
| technique |
The Camera
You may have one of these in your closet from the '70s. The
35mm single lens reflex was very common during this period. Why
not a brand new auto-everything camera? Unless it has manual controls
this degree of sophistication will not be an asset. Older cameras
with manual settings are far more useful. Manual settings are
required because astrophotography images are not "normal".
There's a lot of dark sky that will reproduce like the daytime
sky if you use automatic settings. So much for those pretty stars.
Older cameras can often be purchased for as little as $150. While
you're at it get a cable release so you can mimimize any vibrations
when you start and end the exposure.
Digital cameras can also be used but will suffer from long
exposure noise. Greater than 1 or 2 seconds and you will start
to see random bright pixels mar the image. Some cameras are worst
than others. By the time your exposure is 8 seconds most cameras
will have noise. Electronics is improving but if you're interested
in high quality wide-field astro images, film is still the best
bet. This doesn't mean you can't scan and edit the film afterwards.
You have the best of both worlds.
The Lens
Lenses come in different focal lengths. For a 35mm camera 50mm
is considered an average field of view. My preference is for a
wideangle around 35mm or wider, remember I'm the wide-angle guy,
but if you already have a 50mm and nothing else use it. There
is an advantage to normal lenses, they tend to be higher speed
f/2 or faster and this is a good thing. The higher the speed the
more information captured for that less than a minute time exposure.
A 35mm f/2 would be ideal.
The Tripod
Get the best one you can afford. The tripod should be stable
extended as far as you expect to use it. The better ones are rigid
fully extended. If you're nervous about leaving your camera on
the tripod for extended periods it's the wrong one. Price will
be $80 and up.
High Speed Film
High speed film is unbelievably sharp and grainless today.
Even ISO 400 film is very fine grain. There are good ones in virtually
any of the major brands such as Fuji, Kodak and Konica. My all
time favourite is still the Fuji films. Remember this is a personal
preference. There are colour differences between the films. The
Fuji films tend to have a brown black whereas the Kodak films
have a blue black. Using digital post processing techniques this
is also tunable.
Technique
Ok, you have the camera, cable release, tripod and film. Now
what? Wait for that clear night and be prepared.
Time exposures are special. All movement is recorded during
the duration of the exposure. This means the apparent movement
of celestial objects and the inadvertent kick of your tripod.
If the shutter is faster than the motion everything looks still.
We're going for as much information as possible from the night
sky so stay away from the tripod and keep the exposure fast enough
not to show movement. We call this movement "trailing".
For untracked photography ISO 400 film |
focal length of lens |
maximum exposure without trailing |
50mm |
28 seconds |
35mm |
40 seconds |
20mm |
70 seconds |
The maximum exposures given in the table may show some trailing
under moderate enlargement.What looks good on a 4x6 print may
not look as good on an enlargement. Experiment ... use shorter
exposures for sharper images.
For aperture settings use the maximum opening eg. f/2 or f/2.8.
For sharper and more evenly illuminated results try 1 stop down
from maximum. Unless you paid a lot of money for your lenses it's
unlikely they will perform as well optically when used at their
maximum aperture. These are guidelines for night conditions.
If you are photographing just after sunset try using shorter
exposures such as 4 seconds to 1/30 second at f/2.8 for ISO 400
film. These are suitable for planetary conjunctions or alignments.
You can also try measuring the sky area around the planets for
your exposure. This will reproduce the sky as a medium density
blue. Experiment with the exposure and wait longer after dusk
to get more contrast between the planet and background sky. For
these types of planetary portraits do start your exposures before
it is fully dark. Wide-field shots can benefit from some sky tone
as opposed to a jet black sky. Foreground objects like trees and
buildings will still appear as silhouettes. It's a careful balance
... so experiment.
Keep records of your exposures and the conditions eg. Cameras
lens, f/stop, shutter speed, date and time, weather conditions.
This will help fine-tune your settings for that next roll of film.
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